Le Grand Voyage - La fin

Above - the Youth Hostel

Above - inside the Youth Hostel

Above - our bedroom

Above - the view from my bed

Above - the view from the Youth Hostel over Lyon

Sunday morning. We had our last breakfast in the Youth Hostel and took our sheets down to the laundrette. We packed our suitcases and said goodbye to the Argentinian girls we'd met. They too were leaving to go back to Toulouse. We checked out and made our way to the station passing through the fruit market again. We found our train - the 11h11 to Marseille Saint Charles. As we got closer to Marseille the sky got bluer, the sun came out. As we were pulling into Saint Charles at 14h47 we noticed the grafitti, the litter, the run-down-ness. Aimee took the metro home and I walked from Saint Charles home picking my way through the litter, the dog poo. Looking around at the road works, the building sites, the mess and chaos. Welcome to Marseille - elle est belle mais elle est sale, c'est vrai. En 1995 elle etait en retard mais maintenant on dit qu'elle est a l'heure et qu'elle advance mais je n'en suis pas sure. Je crois qu'elle est toujours en retard, peut etre qu'elle sera toujours en retard. Il y a une certitude - c'est vraiment un defi pour ameliorer cette ville.

Le Grand Voyage - Grenoble

Above - The Alpes - the backdrop to Grenoble

Above - the view from la Bastille

Above - le telepherique arriving at the top of the hill

Above - the view out of one of the bubble things that transports you to the top of the hill.

Above - a Square in Grenoble

Above - the river and Alpes

Above - Grenoble

Saturday morning. 10h45. We navigate our way successfully to Lyon Part Dieu Train Station and manage to get on the right train going to Grenoble. On our way to the train station we walked through a markey selling fruit and vegetables. It all looked so delicious. So well presented, so bright, colourful and fresh. Anyway, we arrived in Grenoble at 10h45 and navigated our way to the tourist information centre where we picked up a map and asked the lady what she recommended we do as we were only there for the day. She told us about la Bastille et le telepherique which was a cable car that took you to the top of a hill and also a walk that we could do around Grenoble. We decided to first have lunch. We stopped at a restaurant and sat outside in the sun in a big square with the snow-topped mountains in the distance. After lunch we began the walk around Grenoble to le telepherique. We went up to the top of the hill where there was an amazing view over the city. We then came back down and continued our walk around. We saw lots of squares, churches. We walked across the river and went to a museum - the museum of old Grenoble, where there was an exhibition of paintings of the city. It's the 40th anniversary of when Grenoble hosted the Winter Olympics and everywhere there are posters and displays to celebrate this. It was quite funny that they were making such a bit deal of the 40th anniversary of having hosted the Winter Olympics but indeed they were. Grenoble is a lovely city. Definitely better than Geneva and possible preferable to Lyon, although it's a close call. We got the 17h44 train back to Lyon where we arrived at 19h12. We stopped for a panini and then went back to the Youth Hostel.

Le Grand Voyage - Lyon

Above - Looking towards the top of the hill where our Youth Hostel was over the Saone

Above - the centre of Lyon

Above - Aimee and a rather strange but beautiful tree

Above - Place Bellecour - the largest square in France

Above - the church at the top of the hill.

Above - the Rhone at night

Above - La funiculaire - the cable car that avoids '10 minutes de grimpette'

Lyon is a beautiful city. It has the Rhone and Saone river flowing through it. It has an old quarter. It has a hill, a steep hill - where our Youth Hostel was and also where there is a beautiful church and fantastic views over the city. It has a quirky quarter - croix rousse, again with good views but also with some interesting shops, and is also home to the largest square in France - Place Bellecour. Lyon is clean, the people are friendly, the drivers don't drive like maniacs, they actually stop to let you cross the road, unlike in Marseille...

We went to the Textile Museum as Lyon's economy was based on textiles, silk in particular. We ate in a creperie. We saw the Hotel de Ville, La Prefecture, La Theatre, L'Opera, L'Eglise, Lyon's very own Eiffel Tower. We took a bus and used La Funiculaire which is like a cable car to avoid walking up the ridiculously steep hill. Lyon's transport network is more impressive than Marseille's, but then again, that's not hard. There is a more comprehensive metro system of 4 lines rather than 2. And, more importantly, 4 lines which cover the city and run past 21h. There are more buses, buses with cloth covered seats rather than the plastic ones in Marseille. What does this tell you? That the Lyonnais are able to respect their public transport, ie. not grafitti on it, so they get comfy seats rather than hard plastic ones. There is also a tram. Put this together with clean streets - no litter and more importantly - no dog poo, and the distinct lack of grafitti and it makes for a very amicable city full of happy, polite people.

Le Grand Voyage - Geneva

Above - The centre of Geneva, Switzerland. But it could be anywhere really.

Above - Geneva, near the station.

Above - A street in the old part of Geneva.

Above - Geneva's tramway. The most ancient I've ever seen.

Above - the flower clock at the entrance to le jardin anglais. I'm sure it's prettier in summer...

Above - le jet d'eau. And it is indeed that - a jet of water. I'm still not quite sure of it's purpose...

Above - a Swiss police car. Stylish.

0904 Lyon Train Station. Platform I for the train to Geneva. We went to platform I and we got on the train that was sitting on platform I. We were sitting comfortably. We started to move. We then began reading the list of stations where the train would stop. Geneva wasn't one of them... Umm, where are we going??! After a considerable amount of pacing up and down the train looking from map to map we realised we were going to somewhere south of Geneva called 'Genois des bains' or something like that, anyway, it wasn't Geneva! It wasn't even in the right country! Hmm. It turned out that the train was going to divide into 2 at some point so, at the first stop, we got off the train, ran down the platform and asked the man at the door for the other half of the train 'est ce que c'est ce train pour Geneve?'. The reply we got was 'What Love?'. Yep, we had stumbled across the Manchester United supporters from the night before. When we asked him in English whether it was the train going to Geneva he said 'oui' in a very English accent and so we got on. We had to walk the length of the train to find a seat. It was like walking through the middle of Manchester. Not a french person in sight, just Manchester United supporters everywhere. What amused me was that all these non French speaking English football fans had managed to get themselves on the right half of the train...

When we arrived in Geneva at 10h57 we stumbled across our next challenge. Things today were really not going well. Anyone would have thought that there was someone somewhere who didn't want us to go to Geneva. As Geneva is in a different country. Ie, Switzerland not France, we needed our passports. That was fine for me. I had mine. Aimee on the other hand had completely failed to realise we were leaving the country and so didn't have hers with her. Trying to cross border control with a provisional driving licence is not recommended. France were happy for her to leave but Switzerland were reluctant to let her in. There was a second when it appeared she was going to have to remain in the bit of land between borders for ever. I think the thing that eventually swung it was the fact she was young, female and white. The man infront of us had his passport examined closely - his french passport may I add, and was also asked where he was going! I thought, if they ask me that what am I going to say? Je vais faire les choses touristiques!

When finally in the country we were disappointed by what we found. I had an image of a rich, clean, elegant city. A city of banks and beautiful architecture. A nation with a clear identity: They're not a member of the European Union, they still have their Swiss Franc. We did not however find any of this. The reality was somewhat different: A city that could have been London. I felt like I'd been before. It was not clean. It did not strike me as being rich. There were no banks, no impressive buildings. The city was far from elegant andwas, it seemed, struggling to find an identity for itself. All the prices were in Swiss Francs but yet everywhere excepted Euros. This made for a complicated system. I bought a postcard for 80 centimes (Swiss Francs) and handed over €1 to be give 50 centimes (Euro) change. Aimee then bought some postcards from the post office and handed over a €10 note only to be handed a whole handful of Swiss currency. I guess it makes for an easy system for short changing. Surely even the Swiss themselves cannot get their heads around such a system! Despite the confusion, our first encounter with the Swiss Franc was a positive one. It is a currency of beauty with charm and character - more than can be said for the Euro and certainly more than can be said for Switzerland (or at least Geneva). We were fascinated by this currency and wanted to get a collection of a few coins to take back to France with us. We continued walking around Geneva. The weather didn't help, it was cold and cloudy. but I think it would have taken more than the sun to make Geneva impressive. We saw the huge waterfall, the clock made of flowers at the entrance to le jardin anglais, albeit dead flowers but I guess that was the time of year. We walked around the old quarter and saw the cathedrale (although we were unable to go inside as there was a funeral going on).

We then went for some lunch. My word, Switzerland is expensive! We had jokingly said that we should take a sandwich with us as we would be unable to afford Switzerland's prices. It shouldn't have been a joke... We eventaully found somewhere that was reasonably priced. We had sandwiches in a very very very busy place. I say 'place' because it was neither a cafe nor a restaurant. It was a cross between the cafe you find in Marks and Spencer and a sushi bar. It was so busy as it was reasonably priced and tasty I guess. We eventually found a seat and sat and ate. Switzerland do not appear to have a smoking ban so we didn't stay long. Whilst we were there however we heard English, French, German. The lady next to us was French and so too was another lady who wanted to know whether a seat was free so why oh why oh why, in a French speaking country did one french person talk to another french person in English?! Like I say, this city really needs to find an identity.

We decided after lunch that we would go around the museum in La Maison Tavel - Geneva's oldest house dating from the 12th century. The Musuem was of old Geneva and was possibly the most intersting thing we saw all day. We saw a model of Geneva that had been made by a Genevois who, for some reason we were unable to imagine, had been so proud of his city he felt the need to make a scaled model of it. A project that took him 16 years to complete! The model was impressive, I'm not sure if it was 16-years-worth-of-work impressive though! We stopped in a cafe for a drink and by this time had collected quite a bit of Swiss currency, we thought it might be wise to spend some of it! I sat photographing the 20 Swiss Franc note and the 10 Swiss Franc note which earnt us some strange looks. We then got excited about the packets of sugar (there isn't much else to get excited in Geneva about). Each packet had a map of Switzerland on and highlighted a different area. We wanted a packet that highlighted Geneva so, at the end when we were paying, we asked the waiter if he had one with the area of Geneva on. He handed us the whole pot of packets of sugar and we went through them. All of them. Well, they already thought we were strange after having photographed bank notes, why disappoint them?! We did not managed to find a single sugar packet for Geneva though. We left disappointed.

We then decided to get on the tram. We had a bit of time left and not a lot to do so thought we'd have 10 minutes going in one direction and then get off, have a walk around and then 10 minutes going back. We got on the tram and realised we were heading for the train station. It was almost as though Geneva was trying to tell us something... We were in plenty of time for our 16h58 train. I seemed to still have a lot of Swiss Francs left so I bought a magazine and some Swiss chocolate. I paid so as to elicit a 10 Swiss Franc note because I thought only the notes would be able to be changed back into Euros in France. The man gave me 2 coins each worth 5 Swiss Francs... So, after having started the day wanting a collection of Swiss currency I now had quite a lot of it. Hmm.

Me and my Swiss currency now needed to get Aimee out of the country. You'd think it would be easier to leave a country than to enter one wouldn't you? Not in Switzerland it would appear. She was told her passport was compulsory and that she couldn't leave without it. Her provisional driving licence was not enough. Even though we argued they'd let her in the country with it just a few hours before. A €200 fine was in order. Either than or prison. Yes, it sounds like he was being funny. He was serious. Very very serious. After a couple more minutes discussion he agreed to let her leave the country. Probably persuaded by her being young, female and white, the fact she had her tickets to show she'd been in the country for only a few hours or maybe, just maybe, he was concerned by the amount of paperwork not letting her leave would entail. That is of course if Switzerland is anything like France. Once safely on the right train, Aimee and Swiss Francs in tow and not a Manchester United supporter in sight, we sat opposite a man who, upon hearing me moaning about 'the damn Swiss currency' told me to use it as an excuse to come again. Haha! I don't think I'd go back to Geneva even if you paid me! He turned out to be a very nice man. Paul, aged 62. Extremely well educated, interesting, well travelled. He lived in France and England, that was when he wasn't flying to Japan or America to interview people for his recruitment firm. When we finally arrived back in France we went for some tea before going back to the Youth Hostel completely exhausted. There were two new people in our room. Both from Argentina, both very nice. One of them is a student in Toulouse and speaks English, Spanish and French. The other is just over to visit her friend but could also speak English. They were really nice. That was one thing I liked about the Youth Hostel - there were so many people from so many different places. Interesting.

So yes, Geneva was dissapointing. It's tainted my view of Switzerland. But I refuse to believe the whole of Switzerland is like this. Maybe because it's only just in Switzerland it isn't a true representation. I'll keep my Swiss Francs, well, I mean, I don't really have much choice. They'll give me an exuse to go again. To a different part of Switzerland may I add. It can't do an harm. any future Swiss experiences can only improve my view of the country!

Le Grand Voyage - le depart

Above - the view over Lyon at night from the Youth Hostel.

I met Aimee at Saint Charles Train Station at 13h45. We were catching the 14h05 train to Lyon to go on holiday for a few days. The train was on time and we arrived at Lyon Part Dieu Train Station at 17h34. There were lots of Manchester United supporters at the station as Lyon were playing Manchester United in the first leg of the Champions' League knockout stages at Le Stade de Gerland in Lyon. We made our way to the front of the station to catch the number 28 bus as the guide book said. We asked the driver of the number 28 who said we needed the number 99. We got on the number 99 and the driver said we needed the last stop for the Youth Hostel which was on the other side of town to the station in 'vieux Lyon' (the old part of town). About three quarters of the way towards the last stop the bus went to turn right and the road was closed. There were police whizzing by, van after van packed with officers, sirens blaring. Everyone had to get off the bus as it was terminating early due to the road closure. We asked for directions to the Youth Hostel and began walking the length of the closed road. It was whilst walking the length of the closed road we realised why it was closed. The Manchester United supporters had taken over a 'special' bus that had presumably been put on especially for them. They were shouting and screaming and foot stomping and all sorts. All the vans of police we'd seen were going to contain the Manchester United supporters. It was discraceful behaviour. We were ashamed to be English (well, Aimee's Scotish... We were ashamed to be English speakers - anything that might relate us to the football hooligans, sorry, I mean supporters) and extremely pleased not to be from Manchester! We eventually found the Youth Hostel. It was at the top of a very very very steep hill. Amazing views but still - a very steep hill. There was a man riding a bike up it! Self torture! Give me a plate of broccoli anyday! When we arrived we checked in and went to our room. We were in room 8. Each room sleeps 6 and has a washbasin. There are 4 rooms on a corridor with 2 bathrooms. The Youth Hostel was quite big - it sleeps 180. There was a room for eating/watching the tv. A room with views over the town, a laundrette, reception. Our room was empty when we arrived, so we unpacked our things and went out in search of something to eat. We found a vietnamese restaurant in the old part of Lyon just at the bottom of the hill from the Youth Hostel. It was a lovely restaurant. When we walked in it was like walking into someone's house. It had a lovely cosy feel to it and smelt delicious. We shared a starter of vegetable spring rolls and then I had a vegetable noodle dish that was lovely. As it was vietnamese we had chopsticks which aren't that easy to eat with! I managed to eat the spring roll with them but when it came to the noodle meal I had to use the fork and spoon. If I hadn't have done I think I would still have been there now! After the meal we went back to the Youth Hostel and showered. The shower was good, only one complaint - you had to either hold the button down all the time for a continuous flow of water or keep pressing the button as every 5 seconds the water cut off. After the shower we went to sleep but as there was only warm water in the room it made teeth brushing an interesting experience...

Above - eating with chopsticks.

Lundi - L'Estaque et Les Calanques

Above - les Calanques looking beautiful, as always

Above - it's me! Honest!

Two old cars (citreon c4??) at L'Estaque - both with Marseille '13' number plates.

Above - L'Estaque

Above - a dog on a wall in l'Estaque. Don't jump!

Monday morning. Rendez vous a la Joliette. 10h. Me, Aimee and Alex. We get on the number 35 bus and head to L'Estaque. We walked around but were quite disappointed that we couldn't sample, or resample as the case was for Aimee and me, the panisse and chichi. It was Monday. France has an annoying habit where shops close on Mondays. As a result there wasn't much open. We walked around. Saw the port, the church, and numerous animals! Dogs, cats, chickens - you name it, we saw it! Towards mid day we decided we were hungry and decided to head back to Vieux Port and go to Cafe Simon for Bruschetta. After lunch Aimee went home and me and Alex went to Les Calanques where I'd been with my teacher. We took the bus. In the evening Rachel came round and we had broccoli and potato cheese with tomatoes (vaguely based on the idea of cauliflower cheese...). We were going to watch a film but instead watched random videos on youtube.

Il ne fait pas toujours beau a Marseille

This picture proves that it isn't always sunny in Marseille. Unfortunately. This picture was taken from Saint Charles on Sunday whilst waiting for Alex who was passing through on his way to Marocco. Typical that he brought Chambery's clouds with him!

Sunday evening saw the biggest game of the season in the French league as far as Marseille is concerned. It was OM against PSG at Le Stade Velodrome. OM won, of course, 2-1. Cracking match. I watched it with Rachel, Alex and Joe.